Italian fine jewellery house Pomellato will open its debut Paris exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo on June 24, marking nearly 60 years since the Milan-based brand reshaped the conventions of European jewellery design.

The exhibition, titled Pomellato, Le Joaillier Révolutionnaire, runs through July 20 and coincides with Paris Haute Couture Week. It launches with a private viewing on June 23, at which Pomellato will also unveil a new high jewellery collection.

The retrospective is curated by Alba Cappellieri, professor and head of jewellery design at Politecnico di Milano. Rather than following a chronological path, the exhibition is structured around the key transformations Pomellato introduced since its founding in 1967.

Sections dedicated to image, craftsmanship, sculptural form, and gemstone use each tell part of the story. A central thread runs through all of them: Pomellato’s deliberate rejection of the formality and symbolism that characterised fine jewellery in the post-war decades.

The exhibition features archival and contemporary pieces alongside photographic campaign images spanning the 1970s through to the 1990s. Photographers represented include Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, Albert Watson, Horst P. Horst, and Lord Snowdon, many of whom shot for Pomellato during the height of their careers.

Chief executive Sabina Belli described the project as a living archive rather than a conventional retrospective, framing it as a dialogue between heritage and the present direction of the house.

Creative director Vincenzo Castaldo highlighted the power of the photographic legacy in narrating Pomellato’s identity, pointing to the Palais de Tokyo’s near-Brutalist setting as a fitting counterpoint to the jewels on display.

The Kering-owned brand has long positioned itself around a modern conception of femininity and everyday luxury. The Paris exhibition represents its most significant institutional statement to date.